Mixology Planet Tour 2012

Building experiments truly is something for the patient and daring. Results seldom favor the palate, given the product in this case, Pernod Absinthe, and the test lab, my kitchen. What shocks me is that all I ever hear is sazeracs, and no green beast cocktails but never the implications in culinary world.

So we are using Pernod Absinthe. What is in it?  We know anise, wormwood, fennel melissa, and hyssop. There many more but for now lets stick the five.  From a flavor profile we know anise is sweet, aromatic, easily confused with fennel for it’s licorice like flavor. Wormwood tends toward a floral, sometimes almost per fumy, minty bitterness that doesn’t come across as harsh, but is quite pleasant. Fennel resembles dill but taste more licorice like than any of the herbs. Melissa, in the US we call it lemon balm, obviously for the lemon like oil fragrance it gives off. Hyssop is strong bitter and somewhat minty along with fennel and wormwood help give absinth it’s green color.

Something I should mention is I could not get to do too many experiments but what I had the time was making absinth, salad dressings and absinthe butters. Might not sound too exciting but the possibilities are endless. IF you understand the core flavor profiles of the spirit, you have the directions and information to adapt recipes. Maybe you don’t want to overload on fine herbs, maybe you want your shrimp dinner to have the herbal notes but have a better-controlled variable.   For more information on absinthe culinary uses, check out the link for amazing by some really exciting people.

http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/718672

So where does absinth stand now? Well it is probably gaining dust, or at some mustached iconic mixologist bar, rocking the shit out of some killer drinks.  The spirit is versatile, but needs proper pairings.

Hell the sazerac is a perfect example, held together because of the Peychauds, and it’s on everyone’s menu.

Absinthe needs to be educated on the flavor side to bring back its relevance in western culture. In a marketing perspective, have Rachael Ray whip up some absinthe candies or sauté seafood on live TV, absinthe sheds its bad reputation and reestablishes it’s self.

http://seattlefoodgeek.com/2012/01/ultrasonic-absinthe-mist-cocktail/

I enjoyed my time with absinthe, especially with Pernod Ricard and their amazing staff. So many more ideas and so many modifications to fountains, all things I hoped to accomplish.  Before this class ends I will make my best effort to amend my posts and try to update and reiterate my thoughts and ideas. Absinth uses vary further than most would agree. I hope this segment was interesting and keep checking and I’ll have updates in a few more days, finger crossed.

Here is a photo of vegetable profiles used in a German style absinth, Pernod should invest in food pairing and make my life easier. We can see how the combinations of the herbs open the door for experiments and where we can use absinthe outside of cocktailing.

I grew up in and near Detroit, even living in downtown Detroit during college.  As a rambunctious child my dad would drive me around Detroit giving me history and architecture lessons while allowing me to shift his manual pick up truck. So it  shocked me to go to Canadian Club and not know any of the history behind it especially with the affinity to Detroit that my dad and I have. How could I have lived so close for so long and never know, we use to go get piercings in Canada cause it was legal at 16 and drinking at 19. Just a short tunnel ride over from Detroit we started our Journey into Hiram Walker’s empire and the history behind prohibition.

Hiram Walker Established the brand in 1858 and built an empire.  He built homes, churches and schools for his employees in Walkerville and he paid them in walker dollars.  He gave them everything they needed. During Prohibition the bulk of alcohol consumed in the US was produced in Walkerville. Many people would smuggle crates of Canadian Club over the Detroit River, many times having to throw their whiskey into the river fetching out after the police we no longer on their trail. Some of the front runners in organized crime were the Purple Gang – a mob of predominatly Jewish members or bootleggers and hijackers in the 1920’s based out of Detroit and Al Capone. It was fascinating to see how many counterfeit bottles were being made as well.

Prohibtion is a vital part of understanding our history in the U.S. and although many of our view points on alcohol have changed its still interesting to think there was a point in time where people believed that they could spontaneously combust into blue flames from drinking too much alcohol…. define too much!

Our Lovely parting gifts. Gold Bottles with out names on them!

Throughout  all of my distillery visits and education about spirits Cognac is one to be marveled at.  It seems that Cognac has gotten pushed to the back burner in many bars, cocktail menus and educational tastings in the U.S.. In the states Cognac does not get the credit it deserves and has taken on a poor stigma usually with some rapper endorsing it. Don’t get me wrong I would drink Louis Royer with Hip- Hop artist VAIN all day.   It is clear to see that cognac is  a luxury item represented by many high profile people but what is not so apparent is the fine craftsmanship, history and future of the water of life.

Cognac is one of the most labor intensive spirits in the market today.  The master distillers have to know everything from the varieties of soil with how that affects the grapes taste, along with disease that may attack the vines, distillation, blending and so much more that my other classmates have went into great depths about in their blogs. What  was most  interesting to see was how some of the brands chose to represent themselves, highlighting different types of standards and experiences. Three Brands really set themselves apart for me by the way they display their roots in tradition but are also at the forefront of innovation.

Royer –  Its only natural that the companies symbol would be the bee symbolizing their commitment to craftsmanship. Louis Royer was a beekeeper ” Like his father and grandfather before him. He liked to compare his firm to a hive. As the bee looks for pollen to make honey in the hive, Louis looked for wine around the Cognac region to make cognac by distillation” As we waked around at first everything seemed pretty similar to most distilleries until we got to the production plant and they had us put on footies, caps and coat.  With China and Japan contributing heavily to cognac sales it is of no wonder why Royer would take on the cleanliness standards held by the Japanese. In their state of the art bottling plant they also produce a number of Liqueurs for the Asian market such as lychee, yogurt and passion fruit.

Courvoisier – Just your usual AMAZING french chateau branded with Napoleon imagery on the Charente river.  The Brand took focus of creating an experience while you tasted the vast portfolio. They lead us on a sensory experience  first starting with a 3D cinematic showing, followed by  an assortment of desserts to reveal the aromas found in XO Imperial. Finally we taken into a room in groups of 5 . Imagine your are in a room with soft music, plush seating with a blind fold over your eyes.  Then a mist goes into the room , candied orange, followed a few minutes late by Iris Flowers and then Creme Brulee.  Leading you through a sensory experience ” Le Nez de Courvoisier” deconstructing the intricacies of XO Imperial lead by none other than Master Blender Patrice Pinet.

All of the Cognac producers are amazing and so different.  I have to say that i was most impressed with Pierre Ferrand.  Maybe its all the cognac, or Pineau des Charentes, or rum….gin…. dry curacao….I drank but its hard to pin point but I have never been more impressed with a distillery.

Pierre Ferrand – Alexandre Gabriel welcomed us all into Cognac Ferrand as if it was our home as well. As soon as he started speaking about the company and products his passion and knowledge overflowed. Most of the other brands seemed a bit more conservative as this is how we have been making cognac and this is how we will keep doing it.  Although cognac thrives off of its history and legacy Pierre Ferrand seemed to be the company truly embracing their past but constantly exploring the possibilities of the future. Alexandre’s passion emanates  through his work of producing fine spirits. They Nurture their  cognac and rum as if they are raising a child.  They give it time and allow it to grow, helping it blossom into its full potential.I was impressed with their entire portfolio and am excited to see the new things they will be doing in the future.

I am blessed to have had this amazing experience and have a deeper appreciation for cognac.

An aged eau de vie at heart, a brandy in spirit, cognac adds a different sort of mystique to the table. Cognac is brandy’s sophisticated and worldly cousin. It is known around the world as a spirit drunk by millionaires and bon vivants. This cultivated image is owed, for the most part, to the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC). This organization, established in 1946, enforces the rules and regulations implemented for cognac production, as well as the promotion of the spirit worldwide. Right now, 97% of all cognac is exported to foreign markets: the top three importers being the United States, Singapore, and China. It is safe to say that without the BNIC, there would not be such a vast, worldwide market for cognac.

Part of what makes the marketing of cognac so successful is its perceived image of timeless quality. It is a luxury good, a symbol of status and wealth, much like a designer handbag or a sports car. Unlike these other luxury goods, however, fine cognac is accessible to more than just the one percent. In any US liquor store, there will inevitably be bottles of Hennessy VS on the shelf for a few dollars more than the mid-range brandy next to it, but it’s not unheard-of for bottles of Cognac to range from $30 to $30,000 in the same store. Point being, cognac is accessible to, and marketed to, almost every drinker, from the budget-conscious to moneyed elites. Unlike other spirits, even the cheapest cognac is regarded and sophisticated to the average consumer. Claire Coates, the BNIC’s director of communications, talks about the challenges of marketing cognac worldwide: “Cognac has always been considered to be a serious product. But it is also important to be accessible, so we must offer accessibility without losing our soul, or identity; producers are looking to fit their products into this trend. Society is changing; people want more fun in their lives. Showing cognac as seductive, as fashionable and sensual, means it is seen as a pleasure.”(1)

Recently, larger cognac companies are capitalizing on society’s need for fun, fashion, and pleasure. Hennessy’s current U.S. ad campaign, “What’s your wild rabbit,” featuring work by Martin Scorsese and Futura, focuses on unleashing the passions of its consumers, old and young alike. Courvoisier is currently promoting its new products, C and Rose, the former being a lighter-bodied cognac made for mixing, the latter a liqueur consisting of cognac and rose wine. Pierre Ferrand, while remaining true to its legacy, just released their 1840 Original Formula cognac, a higher proof, full-bodied cognac ideal for cocktails. Almost every cognac company is following a similar path, seizing the opportunity to cater to the young and the young at heart.

In the Hennessy Chateau

Tradition at its finest: a 77 year old barrel of cognac

While cognac is still something that is deeply rooted in tradition and history, it is branching out into new and uncharted territory. The BNIC is now presented with the challenge of representing cognac in two different ways: the conventional and the fashionable. In the United States, change is the only constant, however, cognac’s more customary aspects shine in other countries’ markets. Along with the help of individual cognac companies, the BNIC showcases the incredible versatility of cognac. While marketing in the United States may be geared toward a new order, it is cognac’s rich history that sets it apart from other spirits. Whether you’re sitting under laser light in a night club or candlelight in a yacht club, the contents of one’s glass are an expression of heritage and terroir, the remnants of a hundreds-year old tradition, with a dash of character from the cellar masters and distillers.

On the banks of the Charente. Probably a master distiller.

I learned a lot about Canadian Whiskey on our trip to Canadian Club. Some from our gracious host, and some supplementally from the ever-wise Mark Gruber.  For me, one of the most distinctive things about the process is how the whiskey is aged.

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One week after our whirlwind trip to France we were whisked away to Windsor, Canada to learn about Canadian Club Whisky. Tish Harcus was our host at the Canadian Club Brand Center, which was built in 1894. The beautiful Mansion was built in Italian Renaissance style and houses an impressive art collection and museum that shouldn’t be missed. Canadian club was founded by Hiram Walker in 1858. Originally from Boston, Hiram moved to Detroit as a young man to build his future. Originally establishing his business in Detroit, Hiram recognized the value in establishing his distillery across the river in Walkerville, Ontario. With an abundance of grain, fresh water, and 100’s of people who were eager to help him craft his “Club Whisky”, Canadian Club became the most sought after Canadian Whisky. Canadian Club Whisky is unique because of it’s pre-barrel blending (before aging) that gives it it’s smooth taste. CC also uses once-used oak barrels (for aging) for a less-aggressive oak taste which gives it more versatility when mixing. Compared to the other leading brands in the US, CC is the only brand that uses the pre-barrel blending before aging method and ages its whisky for 6 years. This gives CC the smoothest taste and finish of any other Canadian Whisky on the market. Now that you know what makes CC so special, won’t you have one?

The second trip of our AMCA  class took us to the lovely city of Windsor Canada and the Canadian Club distillery.  Now owned by Jim Beam, this 150+ year old Candian whiskey distillery is steeped in tradition, history, innovation and maybe even a ghost or two!    Two of the more interesting things I discovered on this trip was that C.C. and other Canadian whiskey makers use temperature controlled warehouses and that C.C. blends there whiskey prior to barreling.  By controlling the warehouse temperature, they have a better understanding of the whisky’s maturation during the cold winter.   The proprietary process C.C. uses by blending the whisky prior to aging was also interesting.  By doing so, they believe that the mash bill can blend smoother by being together longer.  Very interesting!    Thanks to C.C. and there Brand Ambassador Tish Harcus for a great visit!

Most people who know me are well aware that I’m a pretty huge dork. In this post I’ll be delving into one of my favorite dorky pursuits and breaking you all off a little bit of flavor science. Many of you who were along for the ride in France may have heard me rambling about this subject, but it’s time to learn a little bit about Anethole.

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Muse

1. To think or meditate in silence, as on some subject.

2. Archaic. To gaze meditatively or wonderingly.

verb (used with object)

3. To meditate on.

4. To comment thoughtfully or ruminate upon.

Libation

1. A.  The pouring out of wine, etc., in honor of a deity

b.  The liquid so poured out

2. Usually facetious an alcoholic drink

[From Latin lībātiō, from lībāre to pour an offering of drink]

Where does one start, your behind the bar, slammed on a busy night, pouring so many vodka sodas your hands instinctively pour the drink before your know it, your already cashing out the tab and moving to what one would only assume another order for more vodka sodas.  This time someone doesn’t exactly request, that o’ glorious in and out drink of choice by every resident of river north.  This person says this time, he would something bitter, with depth, not something too sweet, but something on it’s own. It’s own identity could be something outshining it’s classic cocktail predecessors. Hell if you have been fortunate to be in this industry, you have probably been that person sitting in front of Chicago’s beverage leaders, asking these outrageous demands.  That person turns away throws something in together comes back and you have your drink, but its more than that, it’s yours, it contents catered to your request sitting in front of you, it’s life depending on your reactions. Yes it’s great just, what I wanted, or no not what I’m looking for but keep trying and you may get it right next time.

Regardless what matters is how you approach the situation and react, producing the final product.  For some this isn’t enough, for some boundaries need to be pushed, new ideas need to be formed. This is why I mention the definitions above. Reflection is the key to discovering new ideas and directions.  A vodka soda only differs from a vodka tonic simply by changing the mixer, or if you can say an Americano only differs from a Negroni by the addition of gin instead of club soda. If you think about it, the only way to advance is to consider what is in front and changing the base components. That doesn’t mean that everything has to be that simple, but for the most part it’s not just about finding exotic ingredients, its taking the core and shaping it to however you desire.  Take lemonade for example, it has always been the crucial training for all bartenders. Master the drink, you can master any cocktail under the sun. If you take the lemon out and switch it with a lime, it becomes limeade. Noticing a pattern? If you take the lemon out and switch it with an orange, and maybe the sugar out, switch the water with tonic, what becomes of the drink?

What inspires us is what we recall upon when put in the situation that requires quick decisions to custom make cocktails. If time spent is on learning how flavors work with each other, and what flavors different ingredients give off, then the possibilities are endless.

For the next couple of weeks, experiments will be conducted during the duration of time spent in the countries we stay in, with the limited resources I have at my disposal. To make my point clear, spirits will be tested in ways to expand their usefulness outside of conventional bartending.  I will use the spirits given as a sort of muse, to learn and expand and make something new, a libation worthy of the best of us. We are in the class to learn, to push new boundaries, to take risks and challenge the conventional. Some of us may not make it in this business, some of us may not even need to try, but as long as one of us learns something extraordinary, then others will follow.

Prior to this trip to Paris France and our time spent with Pernod, I always used absinthe in rather boring ways. A wash for a Sazerac or a drip and thats pretty much it! After a class presented at the Moulin Rouge and an evening out and about Paris my mind was opened to many diffrent ways of using absinthe. Use sugar in your drip or not, flavoring the drip water in diffrent ways, flavor the sugar diffrently, flashy displays and so on.
Its time to reconsider absinthe and open up our minds on the many diffrent ways we could use it and enjoy this lovely product. for some great absinthe recipes like Pernod Green Beast, Grape Sour, Maiden Blush, or the Absinthe Coffee Flip. These recipes are avialable at Pernods web site, www.pernod-ricard
A special thanks to Helen Sabin for a spirited conversation about Pernod Absinthe!